CANINE STYLE DOG TRAINING
AN INTRODUCTION
The object of training is to provide your puppy with a set of cue-
Why we never use aversive methods
Punishment sometimes appears to work well and very quickly because it treats the symptoms (i.e the behaviour stops) but it does not solve the root cause of the problem. The dog may stop the unwanted behaviour but it will either manifest itself in another way or the dog will escalate the behaviour to the next level. For example if you punish you dog for growling at another dog it may start lunging or barking or even biting without warning because it knows it will be punished for growling but is still worried about the situation it is in. By punishing your dog you will also be teaching it to be afraid of you and it will then be reluctant to try out new behaviours in case he/she gets it wrong again.
Length of sessions
Learning is a tiring process (eg a 10 minute training session is equivalent to 30 minutes of physical exercise) especially for young dogs and they do not have the stamina or concentration for long sessions. Therefore your puppy will be working for three to five minute short bursts. However even when your pup is not actively working he/she will be learning by watching the other dogs and by you teaching him/her to behave quietly around the others. If your dog becomes bored easily it is useful to bring a stuffed kong or rawhide chew to keep them occupied between sessions.
Practise, practise, practise
It takes regular training sessions over a six week period for one command to be learnt reliably. Therefore your dog will only pick up the cues if you practise regularly at home. Ideally you should begin training a new behaviour in a distraction free environment so do not expect too much from your dog in a training hall situation. Do not allow a situation to develop where you are repeating your commands or your dog is taking no notice. If you continue you will rapidly desensitise him/her to your voice and he/she will learn to ignore it. Take a break, allow your dog to stretch his/her legs and make sure you understand how to teach the command for practising later. It is also important in a hall situation that you do not allow your dog to cause a distraction to the others. For this reason we ask that you do not allow your dog to play with others whilst training is in progress. It will over stimulate your own dog making it extremely difficult for him/her to concentrate.
Body language
You will need to learn to read your puppy’s body language and understand when he/she is afraid, stressed or unsure for example. If your puppy will not eat treats in a new situation he/she is probably feeling too much anxiety and you need to reduce it. This is why we have food and toys on the floor at the start of the evening. By allowing your dog to explore the toys it reduces anxiety and it also helps if you take your puppy in and out of the hall several times at the beginning of the evening. Do not act sympathetically if your dog is apprehensive as you will teach him/her to believe there is something to be afraid of. Your puppy will also read your body signals more than you would expect and he/she will quickly learn to interpret your mood without you speaking. Ensure you crouch down and use very open body signals. Avoid stiffened posture, towering over a dog, direct eye contact or quick jerky movements. Many of these signals will be interpreted as possible threats by dogs.
Equipment
You should ideally be using a flat clip or buckle collar for your puppy and a lead of at least 170cm with a light clip for attachment to the collar. Never use a chain lead or a check chain of any sort. If you find you have a physically strong dog and need to use a harness or head collar for safety reasons, please discuss it with a trainer first and ensure that it is fitted professionally to avoid any damage to your dog. Timing of food rewards is critically important and you must ensure that you are able to get at your treats quickly and easily. Treat bags which attach to a belt or a simple bum bag are ideal. Your treats must be very tasty and it also helps if they are strong smelling as you will find your dog will be eager to work for them. Please also bring a favourite toy and your dog’s brush or comb with you each week as they will be used for specific exercises. It goes without saying that you should always have bags in order to clear up after your dog and please take it home with you.
Mixing with older dogs
It is important for puppies to learn to mix with adult dogs and therefore the two groups spend a short time together in the main hall. Puppies should learn that not every dog is available or wants to play all the time. A friendly adult dog will firmly teach your puppy respect for others usually by a quick growl or bark. This is not aggression but normal dog interaction. This is how the bitch would interrupt disputes or unwanted behaviour in the litter.
Questions or behavioural issues
Always ask for clarity if you are unsure about any exercise. If you are having difficulty with a particular aspect of training please speak to a trainer or helper and be able to explain the circumstances and any changes that have occurred to the routine of your puppy or any stressful events which have happened. We will either discuss it at the end of the evening or if it is a more serious problem arrange a one to one consultation. It is not possible to deal with complex problems in a training evening as it often involves taking a full case history and careful observation of the dog.